Is It Necessary To Remove The Sideplate On My S&w Revolver To Clean And Lube?
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| I am ashamed to admit but I have never had the cajones to remove the side plate of a revolver. I hear and see horror stories of buggered screws and damaged or ill plumbing fixtures side plates as a result of back yard gun plumbing. I dont desire to impairment any of my ain guns in the learning process. Now I have a situation where I have a M frame that sounds like a handful of sand mixed with sticky Karo syrup in the activeness when you cock the hammer. Obviously something needs to exist done. How hard is it to remove the side plate and clean out the internals and re oil or grease the necessary parts? I have no interest in doing my own trigger chore or anything crazy. I just want to clean out whatever is making the horrible audio and hopefully smooth the action with proper lubrication. Talk me into and thru it. Please. |
04-06-2015, 08:56 PM 
Side Plate Removal and Internal Clean 
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| Not hard to do. Make sure y'all have the proper fitting screwdrivers for the screws & take your time.
Also not a bad idea to read: If you are still unsure of yourself take it to a gunsmith. |
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| Others hither have much more knowledge than I do simply it is possible to do impairment to a gun when removing the side plate. Some other method that will help a lot would be to remove the grips and utilise a can of spray carburetor cleaner to wash out the internals from every possible angle. Spray upwards from the bottom, cock the hammer and spray down from the top. You can use the whole can. Wear heart protection. A confront shield is better. Then allow the gun to dry. You can blow it out with an air compressor if you lot accept i. Then launder information technology out over again with an droplets lubricant such as Rem-oil and allow it to drain overnight earlier replacing the grips. While this may not do as complete a task as a thorough take down, I would argue that it is a lot amend than nothing. |
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| I watched the video and have successfully taken it autonomously. I left the cylinder release and cylinder lock in place because the guy in the video did. My question now is what gets lubed, what lube and how much? |
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| I would never encourage you to practice something you aren't comfortable with. I watched some of the YouTube video (effectually the portion that he was reinstalling the side plate), and wasn't impressed. The manual referenced is good, and what I started with, but the Trigger Task video by Jerry Miculek is FAR superior in my opinion. "Trigger Job: Complete Activeness Tuning for Smith and Wesson Revolvers with Jerry Miculek" DVD is an first-class guide for dis assembly, tuning, and reassembly. Very well done and very detailed. |
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| Quote: Originally Posted by Geno44 Others hither have much more knowledge than I do but information technology is possible to do damage to a gun when removing the side plate. Another method that will help a lot would exist to remove the grips and use a can of spray carburetor cleaner to launder out the internals from every possible angle. Spray up from the bottom, cock the hammer and spray down from the height. You can use the whole can. Wear centre protection. A face up shield is better. Then allow the gun to dry. You can blow it out with an air compressor if yous accept one. Then wash it out once again with an droplets lubricant such as Rem-oil and allow it to drain overnight before replacing the grips. While this may not do every bit complete a job equally a thorough take downwards, I would argue that information technology is a lot better than zero. I do the aforementioned except with Gun Scrubber. |
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| Quote: Originally Posted by flundertaker I watched the video and have successfully taken it apart. I left the cylinder release and cylinder lock in place considering the guy in the video did. My question at present is what gets lubed, what lube and how much? For a "new used" gun, I open it up and I just clean everything off with Hoppes No. nine, wipe it dry and the permit it dry. And so I apply a light coating of Hoppes Aristocracy gun oil - merely any oil volition do. Rebound slide, side of hammer, etc. Trigger pin pin and hammer pivot go oiled also. And then all back together. |
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| Also, if you want to commencement tinkering with Smith revovlers, buy The S&W Revolvers - A Shop Manual - New Expanded fifth Edition - 2014 It's avaialable on amazon. Tells y'all what y'all need to know. |
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| Yes please!!! Become a bones gun screwdriver set up from Brownells (thay have ane fabricated in US) and get the rebound spring tool. Read the manuals or spotter the videos others suggested. Be slow , exist careful and do not forcefulness anything. I was just like you and now I am comfortable taking these apart...slowly , carefully and I am very much mechanically inclined. Lay out the screws in order or better withal punch some holes in cardboard and stick them in it in their respective positions. Generally just care for it like a fine watch. Oil whatsoever moving or sprung parts with reasonable amounts of quality gun oil. Doing lots of shooting y'all may desire gun grease in strategic areas. Well that'due south my 2 cents... |
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| Unless a repair is needed, I utilise non chalking brake parts cleaner by removing the grips and in every position, with hammer dorsum and down, spray the burn out of it while moving it around-has worked great for me. |
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| Quote: Originally Posted by amazingflapjack Unless a repair is needed, I use non chalking brake parts cleaner past removing the grips and in every position, with hammer back and down, spray the fire out of it while moving it around-has worked not bad for me. Non chalking??? I see not chlorinated and regular. Is Brake cleaner safe for blued finishes? Not that I have anthing to worry about on this detail gun since the terminate is ***** but for my future cognition. |
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| Never a reason to take a side plate off unless there is a trouble.Even most gunsmiths are reluctant to remove a side plate unless needed.The five gunsmiths I've known are in agreement on this ,and mentioned that the majority out there get removed by tinkering gun owners.Gun Scrubber followed by Remington oil aresol is all you demand to proceed things clean and not overly lubed. |
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| I carefully remove the grips, the crane and cylinder and the sideplate but ordinarily just finish there. I then spray the internals thoroughly with gun scrubber, re-oil and re-install the sideplate . |
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| I only pried mine of with a screwdriver and a"Small-scale" Ballpeen hammer, no wait that was my Harley!! But joking merely listen to the other guys and you lot deceit go wrong, if you lot get lost just finish and reread.. Its similar riding a bike. __________________ |
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| I recently purchased a 64-viii with substantial frequent flyer miles on information technology. Gun store parking lot shop at the $200 tabular array no less. The alphabetize carte du jour said it had a "crunchy'' trigger and was an ex-police service weapon. After picking it up I went to a local gunsmith to become an estimate on a melody up and cleaning. I got no respect at all. He knew I was a retired framing contractor and asked me if I had ever torn apart any of our pneumatic nailers. Well yeah. ''So, man up and allow'southward get this done.'' I have an like shooting fish in a barrel 30 years on this guy, no respect at all, only ok. Last edited past Beachblaster; 04-07-2015 at 01:04 AM. |
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| Equally long every bit you use a proper fitting hollow basis screwdriver bit and have mechanical and technical abilities you should be fine. Disassembly and reassembly of a Smith Revolver is non all that hard for a person with mechanical skills. If you take "two left thumbs" and lack mechanical and technical skills and then a flush out with an aerosol can of Remoil or Rig #2 Oil (outdoors would be all-time) is probably the best route to take. Remove grips and have at it. Shake it and let it drip dry earlier using. These ii solvents are thin and glutinous and will clean, lube & protect. They will non mucilage upwards and will not attract dust and debris. IMHO the affluent-out method is not as practiced as complete disassembly, however information technology is style improve than nothing and volition certainly aid in cleaning and lubrication. Last edited by chief38; 04-07-2015 at 05:18 AM. |
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| When you buy a used gun, it's much similar a used motorcar in that you have no idea of what the maintenance has been. Read the book, scout the DVD, take information technology apart and clean it and lube it. You buy a used motorcar y'all change all the fluids to constitute a ground zero for your maintenance patterns, practise the same with your guns. They will greatly capeesh the care. |
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| Non trying to throw rocks here, but I watched the starting time five minutes of the video and saw and heard several things that are counter to everything I've ever learned, been taught, and/or done to a S&Westward revolver. I'grand no gunsmith, but y'all should non switch the crane spiral and the "other" screw that is the same size. Despite having the same length and gauge, they are dissimilar screws and should not be switched. The crane screw is a fitted part, and compared to any screw from the entire revolver can be readily seen to be different in shape. Every bit others have indicated, there are means that you can keep the screws in proper order and position, and this should be done as information technology is very important. A proper plumbing equipment screwdriver is important. To me, nothing says "Bubba was here" faster than buggered up screw heads. Please don't beat on the receiver (the side opposite of the side plate) to remove the side plate with a condom mallet, etc. Instead, you should securely concur the piece with the side plate up, and so rap the handle with a hammer handle, or screwdriver handle. By the mode, I often hold a shop rag over the side plate while doing this, and I pad the piece of work area with a folded towel to grab any parts that might fall (this has never happened to me, only I like to play information technology rubber). 2 or three good taps is usually sufficient to get the side plate to "pop" off. Likewise, I ever reinstall the side plate using finger force per unit area only to press fit it dorsum into identify. I've been doing the above for over thirty years - since I beginning accidentally dropped my Southward&W Model 686 into a big pile of sand - with good results. Best of luck, Dave |
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| I take all my used revolvers and new revolvers apart, wipe them downward, clean them and lube them. Right abroad. My pistols go the aforementioned treatment. In some armed services surplus rifles from Egypt I've found sand inside the stocks and one rifle had pine needles in it. Concluding edited by BigBill; 04-07-2015 at 09:18 AM. |
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| I'm going to chronicle something here that is probably heresy to about of y'all but I've seen information technology first hand. Southward&Due west ordinarily puts on a weekend clinic at my local gun social club once a year. At that place are usually two S&Westward factory gunsmiths included and for a donation to the NRA(usually $twenty) they will work on a Smith you're having problems with. They "tuned upward" my Model 28 a couple of years agone. |
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| Quote: Originally Posted by italiansport I'thousand going to relate something here that is probably heresy to virtually of you simply I've seen it first hand. South&W usually puts on a weekend clinic at my local gun club once a twelvemonth. There are normally 2 S&W mill gunsmiths included and for a donation to the NRA(usually $xx) they volition work on a Smith you lot're having problems with. They "tuned up" my Model 28 a couple of years ago. Wow! Oh the humanity! Kind of reminds me of the old joke about the Tv set Repairman who made a house call to fix a tv. The repairman walked up to the Boob tube, studied information technology a 2d, so whacked the side of the Telly cabinet. Of grade, the TV immediately began working properly. The repairman looked at the TV owner, held out his hand and said "That'll be $50.00, please." The homeowner, a chip flustered, insisted on an itemized neb, and subsequently a few moments with his invoice book, the repairman provided the Tv possessor with the following itemized nib: one. Use of right hand: No Charge A few years ago, I came across a DVD from the AGI (American Gunsmith Institute) teaching the disassembly/reassembly of the Due south&W revolver, and the head gunsmith demonstrated the screwdriver every bit a pry bar to the side plate, rather than the tap the grip of the pistol method. Personally, I'm not a gunsmith, so I'thousand going to stick with the traditional (tap the grip) method to remove the side plate. Regards, Dave |
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| Membership at the indoor range where I shoot includes five ultrasonic cleanings per year. Disassemble, clean, arrange/repair equally needed, lube, reassemble. I've been having them do some of my older Due south&Ws I'chiliad not certain near. Rather them than me. |
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| Flundertaker, Hopefully your disassembly and cleaning has gone well. I employ Break Free CLP for all of my Cleaning, Lubrication and Protection. You will run across the points of contact when the side plate is removed. Cease by a sewing auto shop and ask them if they have a fine tip/tube oiler. Fill with your favorite lube. I also utilise a syringe, available from land feed stores, for oiling needs. When all else fails, a toothpick dipped in a capful works. However,... .. I suppose past know you have finished the job!. I use BreakFree CLP with a gun brush for cleaning. |
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| I finally took the side-plate off a S&West after thinking about it for about of 30 years. The Kuhnhausen book is helpful but not actually needed if a cleaning is all that's on the agenda. I watched several of the online videos kickoff. === Last edited by Nemo288; 04-07-2015 at eleven:11 PM. |
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| As my manus is not every bit steady as it once was I now take constitute a way to reduce the chance of scratching the side plate when removing and reinstalling the side plate screws. Once the screw is loose, I use a orange stick trimmed to a wedge, which is what my married woman uses on her finger nails, to install or remove the screws. I only employ a hollow ground screw driver for the final few turns either in or out. Orange sticks are strong enough to do most of the piece of work without marring the blued area effectually the pigsty. They are most an eight inch in diameter and come with the ends already in a wedge shape. |
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| That sounds like a great idea. === |
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| I've taken the sideplate off every revolver I have ever endemic. Utilize the right screwdriver and tap it off from the other side of the grips with the handle of a screwdriver and it comes off every time. Only affair that comes off is the hammer block. I blast the inside with brake cleaner, apply a toothbrush lightly on the internals, blow out with compressed air, and lightly lube. Put the plate on the correct way and don't mix upwardly the screws and at that place really is no danger. I got a 67-1 about 2 years ago and the inside was literally caked in congealed grease and dirt. |
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| I dunno, I am pretty mechanically inclined and observe revolvers pretty darn simple to work on. As mentioned previously, buy the big Wheeler screwdriver kit: Dissentious the slide plate is a real possibility, equally information technology is fitted from the factory and it has a tab on the top near the hammer. If you tilt the side plate as well far out when removing it, it volition dimple the fine fitted gap between the side plate and the frame at the elevation. I see tons of used guns with that impairment. I am a huge fan of rapping on the frame with a rubber mallet to both remove and install the side plate, information technology will generally both snap out and snap in. Besides during reassembly, the hammer cake is a loose plumbing fixtures slice of metal that makes reassembly a real PITA, you lot need to carefully finesse the side plate during reassembly to get information technology all to sit flat. Everything else inside is pretty direct forward except the hammer spring on newer revolvers like my 610. I would never, ever, always simply spray cleaner "in the hole" then spray some lube in the pigsty. Luckily this process is ineffective at really cleaning anything otherwise information technology would cause the hammer, trigger and other components to seize on their shafts. To properly lube a revolver it needs to exist taken apart and gun oil needs to be liberally practical to the shafts, slides and holes that are nowadays. Here is some photos of the tricky hammer spring. I always recommend doing first time disassembly in a plastic bag as there are chances of springs shooting all over the identify. |
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| I decided to watch the video, and had to quit after about 2 minutes. Any yous do, Practice NOT follow his instructions in his sequences. He did and so many things incorrect that there is no doubt he owns some screwed up guns. Purchase the Kunhausen book and "READ" the volume first, then buy the "Correct" screwdrivers before attempting annihilation. Later removing the mainspring, the 1st thing to remove is the rebound spring & slide, and information technology is easier with a special tool (there is one in that wheeler set). And NEVER pull the mitt out of the trigger to remove the hammer. With the rebound slide out the trigger easily lifts out then the hammer. FOLLOW THE BOOK, not this guy. That video should exist banned from YouTube. __________________ |
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